The easiest cards to get are secured cards and cards designed for people rebuilding credit
The easiest credit card to get depends on your credit history, but secured credit cards are the most straightforward path for most people. A secured card requires you to put down a cash deposit — usually $200 to $2,500 — which becomes your credit limit. The card issuer holds this deposit as collateral, which means they take almost no risk. Because the risk is low, they approve people with no credit history, damaged credit, or credit scores below 600.
If you have some credit history but a lower score, unsecured cards designed for rebuilding are the next easiest option. These cards have higher interest rates and lower credit limits than cards for people with good credit, but they don't require a deposit. They're easier to get than premium cards, but harder to get than secured cards.
The reason these cards are easier to get is simple: the issuer knows upfront what their maximum loss can be. With a secured card, they hold your money. With a rebuilding card, they set the limit low enough that they can absorb a loss if you don't pay. Neither type requires perfect credit or a long credit history.
Key Takeaways
- Secured credit cards are the easiest to get because you put down a cash deposit that the issuer holds as collateral, removing their risk.
- Unsecured cards marketed for rebuilding credit are the second-easiest option and don't require a deposit, though they have higher interest rates.
- Credit unions often have easier approval standards than national banks, especially if you're a member or can become one.
- Your credit score, income, and debt-to-income ratio all affect approval odds, but a secured card can work even with a very low score or no credit history.
- Getting approved is only the first step — the real goal is using the card to build credit, which means paying the full balance on time each month.
How secured cards work and why they're the easiest approval
When you open a secured card, you deposit money into a savings account that the card issuer controls. That deposit amount becomes your credit limit. If you deposit $500, your limit is $500. You then use the card like any other credit card — make purchases, receive a bill, and pay it back.
The deposit stays in the account untouched. You don't spend it. The issuer holds it as insurance in case you stop paying your bill. This is why approval is nearly automatic: the issuer's risk is zero. They can't lose money because they already have it.
Secured cards are offered by most major banks and many credit unions. Capital One Secured Mastercard, Discover Secured Card, and U.S. Bank Secured Visa are common examples, but your own bank may offer one. The deposit requirements and interest rates vary — some charge annual fees, some don't. Compare a few options before you choose, but don't spend weeks researching. The differences matter less than actually opening the card and using it.
Unsecured rebuilding cards: easier than premium cards, harder than secured
An unsecured rebuilding card doesn't require a deposit. Instead, the issuer sets your credit limit based on your income, debt, and credit score. Because they're taking on real risk, they approve fewer people than a secured card issuer would, but they still approve people with lower scores and shorter credit histories.
These cards typically have interest rates between 18% and 29%, compared to 15% to 21% for cards aimed at people with good credit. Your credit limit might be $300 to $1,000 to start. Some charge annual fees ($39 to $99), and some don't. The tradeoff is that you're paying more in interest and fees, but you don't have to lock up a deposit.
Unsecured rebuilding cards include the Capital One Platinum Mastercard, the Discover It Secured Card's unsecured cousin, and various store cards. The catch is that approval is not may provide — the issuer will pull your credit report and may deny you if your score is very low or your debt is very high. A secured card is a safer bet if you're worried about rejection.
Credit unions often have easier approval than banks
Credit unions typically have more flexible approval standards than national banks, especially for members. If you belong to a credit union, ask whether they offer a secured card or a rebuilding card. Many credit unions will approve members with credit scores below 600, and some will work with you even if you have no credit history.
If you don't belong to a credit union, you may be able to join one. Some credit unions are open to anyone in a geographic area; others require membership in a specific employer, profession, or organization. The National Credit Union Administration (NCUA) website has a tool to search for credit unions near you or that match your background.
Credit union cards often have lower interest rates and lower fees than bank cards aimed at the same audience. The approval process is sometimes slower — a few days to a week instead of instant — but the terms are often better. It's worth exploring if you have access to a credit union.
What issuers look at when they decide whether to approve you
Credit card issuers review four main things: your credit score, your income, your existing debt, and your payment history. For a secured card, the credit score and payment history matter less because the deposit covers the risk. For an unsecured rebuilding card, all four matter.
Credit score: Scores below 580 make unsecured approval unlikely, but secured approval is still possible. Scores between 580 and 669 open up unsecured rebuilding cards. Scores above 670 open up more options, though you may still be offered rebuilding cards if you have recent negative marks.
Income: Issuers want to see that you earn enough to pay your bill. You don't need a high income — many secured cards approve people earning $15,000 to $20,000 per year — but you do need to show some income. Self-employment counts; unemployment benefits count; Social Security counts. You'll report this on the application.
Debt-to-income ratio: This is the percentage of your monthly income that goes to debt payments. If you earn $2,000 per month and pay $600 toward existing debts, your ratio is 30%. Most issuers want to see this below 40% to 50%, though secured card issuers are more flexible.
Payment history: If you have a credit report, the issuer will look at whether you've paid past bills on time. Recent late payments (within the last year) make approval harder. Older late payments matter less. If you have no credit history, this doesn't hurt you — it just means the issuer has less information to go on.
Why getting approved is just the beginning
Approval is the easy part. The hard part is using the card in a way that actually builds your credit. Many people get a card, use it, and then don't pay attention to the bill — which defeats the entire purpose.
To build credit, you need to make on-time payments. Set up automatic payments for at least the minimum due, or better yet, the full balance. Missing a payment by even one day can trigger a late fee and damage your credit score. Paying the full balance each month means you avoid interest charges and show lenders that you can handle credit responsibly.
Keep your balance low relative to your limit. If your limit is $500, try to keep your balance below $100 or $150. This is called your credit utilization ratio, and it affects your credit score. High utilization (using most of your limit) signals financial stress to lenders, even if you pay on time.
After 6 to 12 months of on-time payments and low utilization, your credit score should improve. At that point, you can look into upgrading to an unsecured card with better terms, or even a card with rewards. The secured card has done its job.
Comparing secured and unsecured rebuilding cards
| Feature | Secured Card | Unsecured Rebuilding Card |
|---|---|---|
| Deposit required | Yes, $200–$2,500 | No |
| Approval odds with low credit score | Very high | Moderate |
| Typical interest rate | 18%–24% | 18%–29% |
| Typical credit limit | $200–$2,500 | $300–$1,000 |
| Annual fee | $0–$95 | $0–$99 |
| Best for | No credit history or very low score | Some credit history but lower score |
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I get a credit card with no credit history?
Yes. A secured card is your best option because approval doesn't depend on credit history. You'll need to show income and pass a background check, but the issuer doesn't need to see past credit behavior. Many people get their first card this way.
What's the difference between a secured card and a prepaid card?
A secured card reports to credit bureaus and builds your credit score. A prepaid card does not. With a prepaid card, you load money onto it and spend that money, but it doesn't help your credit. If your goal is to build credit, a secured card is what you need.
Will getting denied for a credit card hurt my credit score?
A denial itself doesn't hurt your score, but the credit inquiry the issuer pulls does — slightly and temporarily. Multiple inquiries in a short time can lower your score a few points. Apply for one or two cards, wait a few months, then apply again if needed. Don't apply for five cards in one week.
Can I graduate from a secured card to a regular card?
Yes. After 6 to 12 months of on-time payments, contact your issuer and ask about upgrading to an unsecured card. Many issuers will convert your secured card automatically or offer you an unsecured card with better terms. When that happens, your deposit is returned to you.
What if I can't afford a deposit for a secured card?
Start with a smaller deposit if possible — some issuers accept $200 or $300. If you truly can't save a deposit, an unsecured rebuilding card is your only option, though approval is less certain. You could also ask a family member to co-sign, though this puts them at risk if you don't pay.