What you can get with a 600 credit score

With a 600 credit score, you have options — but they are different from what someone with a 750 score sees. Most mainstream cards (the ones offering cash back or travel rewards) require a score of 670 or higher. At 600, you are looking at secured cards, cards designed for people rebuilding credit, and a smaller set of unsecured cards that accept lower scores.

The difference matters in two ways: the cards available to you now, and what happens next. A secured card requires a cash deposit but reports to all three credit bureaus, which means six to eighteen months of on-time payments can move your score high enough to may have access to for better cards. An unsecured card designed for lower scores skips the deposit but usually carries a higher interest rate and lower credit limit.

Your score of 600 is not a barrier to credit — it is a signal to issuers about risk. Cards exist specifically for this range because people in it have a real path to better terms.

Key Takeaways

  • Secured cards require a cash deposit (usually $200 to $2,500) but report to credit bureaus and can raise your score within a year if you pay on time.
  • Unsecured cards for 600-level scores exist but typically charge higher interest rates and offer lower limits than mainstream cards.
  • Your first card at 600 should prioritize reporting to all three bureaus and having no annual fee, not rewards.
  • On-time payments matter more than the card itself — missing even one payment can drop your score further and close doors.
  • After six to twelve months of perfect payment history, you can request a credit limit increase or move to an unsecured card with better terms.

Secured cards: how the deposit works

A secured card works like this: you give the issuer a cash deposit, usually between $200 and $2,500. That deposit becomes your credit limit. You use the card like any other — swipe it, pay the bill — but the issuer holds the deposit as collateral in case you stop paying.

The deposit is not a fee. It sits in a separate account and stays yours. You get it back when you close the card or when the issuer converts it to an unsecured card (which many do after twelve to eighteen months of on-time payments). During that time, the card reports every payment to Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion, which is what rebuilds your score.

The catch: you still pay interest on the balance, just like a regular card. If you carry a $500 balance on a $500 limit, you owe interest on that $500. The deposit does not reduce what you owe — it only secures the line of credit.

Secured cards worth considering at 600 include the Capital One Secured Mastercard (no annual fee, reports to all three bureaus) and the Discover it Secured Card (also no annual fee, includes cash back at 2% on gas and restaurants for the first year). Both have been known to convert to unsecured cards after twelve months of on-time payments.

Unsecured cards for lower credit scores

Some issuers offer unsecured cards to people with scores around 600 — no deposit required. These cards are real credit lines, not secured by collateral. The tradeoff is higher interest rates and lower starting limits.

Cards in this category often carry APRs between 24% and 36%, compared to 15% to 20% for mainstream cards. Your starting limit might be $300 to $500. Annual fees are common but not universal — some charge $39 to $99 per year, others charge nothing.

The advantage: if you need credit immediately and do not have $500 to $2,500 for a deposit, an unsecured card gets you access faster. The disadvantage: the higher interest rate means carrying a balance costs significantly more. If you can save for a deposit, a secured card is usually the better choice because the terms improve faster.

Issuers known to consider 600-level scores for unsecured cards include Credit One Bank and some regional banks. Check the issuer's website or call their customer service line — they often state the minimum score they consider, though that number is not a hard cutoff.

What happens with your credit limit

At 600, expect a starting limit between $300 and $1,000, depending on the card and your deposit (if secured). This is not permanent. After six months of on-time payments, many issuers will increase your limit without a hard inquiry — meaning your score does not take a small dip from the request.

A higher limit does two things: it gives you more room to borrow if you need it, and it lowers your credit utilization ratio. Utilization is the percentage of your available credit you are using. If you have a $500 limit and a $250 balance, your utilization is 50%. If your limit increases to $1,000, that same $250 balance drops your utilization to 25%. Lower utilization helps your score.

Do not request a limit increase more than once every six months — each request triggers a hard inquiry, which temporarily lowers your score by a few points. Space them out and let the issuer offer increases on their own when possible.

Annual fees and interest rates to watch

At 600, you will see annual fees more often than at higher scores. Some cards charge $39 to $99 per year just to hold them. Others charge nothing. The difference adds up: a $99 annual fee on a card you use for two years costs $198 before interest.

Prioritize cards with no annual fee, especially if you are rebuilding. Your goal is to prove you can use credit responsibly without the cost of the card working against you. Once your score reaches 670 or higher, you can move to cards with annual fees if the rewards justify it — but at 600, a no-fee card is the smarter choice.

Interest rates at 600 typically range from 18% to 36% depending on the card and issuer. The rate matters only if you carry a balance. If you pay the full statement balance every month, you pay zero interest regardless of the APR. If you must carry a balance, a card at 18% costs less than one at 28%, so shop the rate when comparing options.

Building your path from 600 to 670

Your score of 600 is not your final score. Most people who use a card responsibly for twelve to eighteen months see increases of 50 to 100 points. Here is what moves the needle: on-time payments (the single biggest factor), low utilization, and time.

On-time payments mean paying at least the minimum by the due date, every month, with no exceptions. One late payment can drop your score 100 points or more. Set up automatic payments for at least the minimum if you are worried about forgetting — you can always pay more when the bill arrives.

Utilization should stay below 30% of your limit. If your limit is $500, keep your balance under $150. This is easier to do if you use the card for small purchases (gas, groceries) and pay it off weekly rather than waiting for the statement.

Once you hit 670 or higher, you become may be able to access for mainstream cards with better terms. At that point, you can close the secured card (and get your deposit back) or keep it open to maintain a longer credit history. Keeping it open with zero balance actually helps your score.

Mistakes to avoid at 600

The most common mistake is applying for multiple cards at once. Each application triggers a hard inquiry, which lowers your score by a few points. Multiple inquiries in a short time signal desperation to lenders and can hurt more than help. Apply for one card, wait three to six months, then apply for another if you need it.

The second mistake is carrying a high balance to build credit faster. This does not work. Your payment history matters, but so does utilization. Carrying a $400 balance on a $500 limit (80% utilization) actually slows your score recovery because it signals financial stress. Use the card, pay it down, repeat.

The third mistake is missing a payment or paying late. At 600, your credit report already shows past problems. One more late payment can drop your score another 50 to 100 points and reset your rebuilding timeline. Late payments stay on your report for seven years, but their impact fades after two years if you have clean history after that.

Frequently Asked Questions

Will getting a secured card hurt my credit score?

The application itself triggers a hard inquiry, which lowers your score by a few points temporarily. But the card then reports positive payment history, which raises your score over time. The net effect after six months is almost always positive. The deposit does not hurt your score — it is just collateral.

Can I use a secured card to pay bills and build credit?

Yes, but only if the bill collector reports to credit bureaus. Utility companies, phone companies, and rent do not usually report to bureaus unless you fall behind. Credit cards, loans, and lines of credit do report. Use the secured card for small purchases you can pay off, not as a substitute for paying bills directly.

How long before a secured card converts to unsecured?

Most issuers convert after twelve to eighteen months of on-time payments, but some take longer or require you to request conversion. Check the card's terms or call the issuer to ask their timeline. When conversion happens, your deposit is returned to you, usually within a few weeks.

What if I cannot save $500 for a secured card deposit?

An unsecured card for lower scores is your option, though the interest rate will be higher. Alternatively, you can wait a few months while saving the deposit — your score will not change much in that time, and having the deposit ready means you can open the card immediately when you are ready.

Does paying off my balance early help my score?

Paying early does not hurt, but it does not help more than paying on time. Your score cares that you paid by the due date, not that you paid early. What matters for your score is the payment history and utilization reported on your statement — both of which are set by your statement closing date, not your payment date.