What happens when you dispute a charge
When you dispute a credit card charge, your card issuer opens an investigation and temporarily removes the amount from what you owe while they gather evidence. You do not need to prove the merchant wrong — the merchant has to prove the charge was legitimate. The process typically takes 30 to 90 days, though some cases resolve faster.
Your card issuer will ask you to describe what happened, then contact the merchant's bank with your version of events. The merchant then has a chance to respond with their own documentation. If the merchant does not respond within the deadline, you usually win by default. If both sides submit evidence, the card issuer decides based on what they receive.
The outcome depends on the type of dispute. Unauthorized charges (someone else used your card) are the easiest to win. Billing errors (wrong amount charged, duplicate charge, charge posted to the wrong account) are straightforward if you have your statement. Merchandise disputes (item never arrived, arrived damaged, or did not match the description) require more documentation and are harder to win because the merchant can often prove they shipped something.
Key Takeaways
- File your dispute in writing with your card issuer within 60 days of the charge appearing on your statement, because verbal disputes do not create a legal record.
- Gather every piece of evidence before you file: order confirmation, tracking numbers, photos of damage, emails with the merchant, your statement showing the charge.
- Be specific about what went wrong — do not say "I did not authorize this" if you actually ordered it but received the wrong item, because the merchant will prove you placed the order.
- The merchant has the burden of proof, not you, so if they cannot respond to your card issuer within the deadline, you win the dispute.
- If you lose, you can ask your card issuer to reconsider if you have new evidence, but you cannot file the same dispute twice.
File your dispute in writing within 60 days
Call your card issuer's customer service number on the back of your card and ask to file a dispute. They will likely offer to start the process over the phone, but you must follow up with a written statement within 60 days of the charge appearing on your statement. This 60-day window is a legal requirement under the Fair Credit Billing Act, and disputes filed after that deadline are not protected.
Send your written dispute to the address your card issuer provides — usually a disputes department with a specific mailing address. Include your account number, the transaction date, the merchant name, the amount, and a clear explanation of why you are disputing it. Keep a copy for your records and send it certified mail with return receipt so you have proof of delivery.
Some card issuers allow you to file disputes through their mobile app or online portal. If you use this method, take a screenshot showing the date and time you submitted it. Digital filing is faster, but written mail creates a paper trail that is harder to lose.
Gather evidence before you file
The strength of your case depends entirely on what you can show your card issuer. Start by collecting everything related to the transaction: your original order confirmation, any emails from the merchant, tracking numbers, delivery confirmation, photos of the item if it arrived damaged, and your credit card statement showing the charge.
If the merchant promised something in writing — an email saying the item would arrive by a certain date, a product description that did not match what you received, a chat transcript where they said something different — save that. Screenshots count as evidence, but they are weaker than emails because they can be edited. If you have an email, forward the entire email thread to your card issuer, not just a screenshot.
For unauthorized charges, gather any evidence that the charge was not made by you: a police report if your card was stolen, a statement from your phone company if the charge was made in a different state, or a record of where you actually were at the time. For billing errors, your statement itself is usually enough — the card issuer can see the duplicate or the wrong amount.
Explain exactly what went wrong, not just that you did not authorize it
Your explanation matters because it tells your card issuer which type of dispute to file. If you say "I did not authorize this charge" but you actually placed the order, the merchant will prove you did and you will lose. Be specific about what actually happened.
For an unauthorized charge: "I did not place this order. My card number was not in my possession on [date]. I first noticed the charge on [date] when I reviewed my statement."
For a charge that arrived late or never arrived: "I ordered [item] on [date] for delivery by [date]. The tracking number shows it was never delivered. I contacted the merchant on [date] and they said [what they said]. I am disputing this because the item did not arrive as promised."
For an item that arrived damaged or did not match the description: "I received [item] on [date]. The product description said [what it said], but the item arrived [what was wrong with it]. I contacted the merchant on [date] and they refused to refund or replace it. Photos are attached showing the damage."
Understand what the merchant will do to fight your dispute
The merchant's bank will contact them and give them a deadline — usually 7 to 10 days — to respond with evidence. Most merchants will submit a copy of your order, proof that they shipped the item, and a tracking number showing delivery. If the item was delivered to your address, the merchant has a strong defense even if you claim you never received it, because the shipping carrier confirmed delivery.
For unauthorized charges, the merchant will try to show that you placed the order: an IP address matching your home, an email address you use, a shipping address you have used before. If the merchant can prove any of these, your card issuer may side with them. This is why unauthorized disputes are only winnable if the charge truly was not made by you or someone with access to your account.
If the merchant does not respond within the deadline, your card issuer will rule in your favor by default. Many small merchants miss the deadline because they do not check their disputes email regularly or because their payment processor does not forward the dispute notice properly. This is not your problem — if they do not respond, you win.
What happens if you win or lose
If you win, the charge is removed from your account permanently. You do not owe that money. If the merchant already refunded you before the dispute was filed, you may end up with a credit on your account instead of a removal, depending on your card issuer's process. Either way, the money is yours.
If you lose, the charge goes back on your account and you owe it. You can ask your card issuer to reconsider if you have new evidence that was not available when you first filed — for example, if the merchant later admitted in writing that the item never arrived. But you cannot file the same dispute twice with the same evidence. If your card issuer has already decided, filing again will be rejected.
Some card issuers allow you to escalate a lost dispute to a second review if you believe the decision was wrong. Ask your disputes department whether this is an option and what new evidence they need to reconsider.
Disputes for items that never arrived versus items that arrived wrong
These two situations are handled differently, and the distinction matters for your chances of winning. If you ordered something and it never arrived, you have a strong case if you can show the tracking number does not show delivery. If the merchant shipped it but the carrier lost it, the merchant may still be responsible depending on whether they paid for signature confirmation or insurance.
If an item arrived but was damaged, wrong, or did not match the description, your dispute is weaker because the merchant can prove they shipped something. Your card issuer will likely tell you to contact the merchant for a refund or replacement instead of opening a dispute. However, if you contacted the merchant and they refused to help, you can still dispute it — just be clear in your explanation that you gave them a chance to fix it first.
For wrong items, take photos showing what you received versus what the order said. For damaged items, photograph the damage and the packaging. These photos are your strongest evidence that the merchant sent you something other than what you paid for.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I dispute a charge if I changed my mind about the purchase?
No. Buyer's remorse is not a valid reason for a dispute. You can only dispute if the merchant did not deliver what they promised, the item arrived damaged, or the charge was unauthorized. If you want to return something, contact the merchant directly about their return policy.
What if the merchant is out of business?
File the dispute anyway. Your card issuer will attempt to contact the merchant's bank, and if the merchant no longer exists, the merchant's bank will likely not respond. When the deadline passes without a response, you win by default. Being out of business does not protect a merchant from disputes.
How long does a dispute take?
Most disputes are resolved within 30 to 90 days. Some card issuers resolve them faster if the merchant does not respond quickly. During the dispute, the amount is removed from your balance, so you do not have to pay it while the investigation is happening. Once a decision is made, it is final unless you have new evidence to request reconsideration.
Can I dispute a charge if I signed a receipt?
Yes. A signature does not prevent you from disputing an unauthorized charge or a charge for something that never arrived. However, if you signed a receipt for an item you received, it is harder to dispute if you later claim you did not receive it. Signing proves you were present at the transaction, but it does not prove the item was what you ordered or that it was not damaged.
What happens if I dispute a charge and the merchant refunds me anyway?
Contact your card issuer immediately and tell them the merchant refunded you. Ask them to close the dispute. If you do not, you could end up with both the refund and the dispute credit, which means you are paid twice. Your card issuer may reverse the dispute credit or require you to return the refund amount.